Indochina In-Depth: Temples & Teal Water

Fishing, golf and, of course, elephant kraals.

Established in 1767 as the capital of Thailand the city maintains a timeless charm. An extensive system of canals has earned it the nickname “Venice of the Far East,” and visitors should make a point of experiencing its floating marketplace. Bangkok is of course also world-renowned for its wealth of ancient temples and beautiful gardens–and did we mention, shopper’s paradise. An hour from Laem Chabang is Pattaya, Thailand’s most popular vacation spot. That’s where the elephant kraals come in.

Thailand’s second-largest city and the gateway to the country’s north was founded in 1296. You can still see the moat that encircled the original city, and there are 300 wats, including Wat Chiang Man (home of the 1800-year-old 10-cm-high Crystal Buddha), Wat Phra Singh (built in the classic northern-Thai style) and Wat Chedi Luang (partially ruined by earthquake, cannon fire and recent restoration efforts). Doi Suthep rises 1676m to the west of the city providing a dramatic backdrop and, should you venture up, fine views of the city.

Modern Chiang Mai is easily managed, with many visitors choosing to get around by bicycle. It’s well-known for its restaurants and also has heaps of good guesthouses (although the hotel ‘safes’ are notoriously not). Compared to Bangkok, Chiang Mai’s evenings are cool and conducive to moseying around the central Night Bazaar. To get value for money, bargain patiently but mercilessly; no less is expected of you. When you’re sick of honing your free-market warrior attitude, Chiang Mai is a good base for mountain treks. Just about every guesthouse advertises treks to visit the hill tribes who live in the surrounding area. You may want to think twice about joining such an excursion if you have qualms
about interrupting the traditional patterns of life in hill-tribe areas. This part of Thailand is considerably overtrekked and some hill-tribe villages have been turned into little more than human zoos.

There are air links to Chiang Mai from eight Thai cities plus a handful of Asian cities. Heaps of buses negotiate the 10 to 12-hour trip from Bangkok. Express trains to Chiang Mai from Bangkok take between 12 and 13 hours.

The way to Hué. Such is Da Nang’s current lot: gateway to the historic city of Hué. Da Nang, founded in the 2nd century, was visited by Marco Polo (1285) and by Napoleon II (1856).

Hué served as Vietnam’s capital from 1802 to 1945 under 13 different emperors of the Nguyen Dynasty, whose splendid tombs are one of the city’s major attractions.

Da Nang is mostly a historical community, setting of much of the Viet Nam War, and lies on the mid-western coast of Viet Nam. It has a tropical climate, and the terrain has a low, flat delta.

Thanks to its central location between them, the working port of Chan May is the gateway to both these historic cities.

Smaller, quieter, greener and more dignified than Ho Chi Minh City, the nation’s capital can sometimes look like a provincial French city. This, like most things in Vietnam, is changing fast as economic restrictions are lifted and old regulations are forgotten. Life (and traffic, unfortunately) is returning to the streets and shopping no longer means a trip to a dreary government department store. Still, the city remains quiet enough for cycling to be the ideal means of getting around, and many hotels and cafes rent bicycles.

Places to visit include the fascinating 11th-century Temple of Literature (site of Vietnam’s first University), the 15th-century Old Quarter, some enchanting lakes and temples, and the Mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh.

Budget accommodation can be scarce in Hanoi, especially between June and September, but many people rent rooms and with some searching you should find something. Whatever your budget, you’ll pay more for accommodation in Hanoi than elsewhere in the country. Hanoi has plenty of domestic and international air connections, and is connected with Ho Chi Minh City by the Reunification Express train.

As they say on TV, we’re back! Two decades after the last Americans left what was then South Vietnam, the country is luring back Americans as well as many other nationalities with its colorful, diverse blend of Vietnamese, French and American cultures. Divided into 18 districts, this dynamic city has experienced a dramatic reawakening after so many
years of isolation.

Your ship will dock in the well known resort area of Vung Tau. To reach Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon), the capital, requires a day long shore excursion. For those with an appreciation of foreign culture as well as American history, it is highly recommended.